Re-Post from MDT
In the world of camouflage systems, the ghillie suit is considered the pinnacle of individual concealment options. The reason for this is simple. The ghillie suit gives the observer a three dimensional object to see. It gives a depth and texture, not possible with a one dimensional cloth camouflage pattern. As much as some designs try to imitate the three dimensional effect of the ghillie, they still fall short in there ability, especially when the light hits certain types of cloth in a particular way. One down side to the ghillie suit, is the users ability to wear, or access certain types of gear/equipt., From an Infantryman/non sniper perspective, there are certain types of gear that personnel need to have immediate access to ( example- mag pouches), more so than the average sniper does.
I came up with this system, basically out of a need to give my equipment some of the same camo effect (3D) that the ghillie has, while not blocking access to the gear that is needed immediately. The MMGS, when used in conjunction with something like the Mosquito Viper Hood pictured here
will give the user a relatively cheap, semi ghillie camo system for the upper body, that will more effectively help conceal the user more than a single dimensional cloth camo pattern top would.
We start with these components
Multi colored jute (burlap string) which matches the environment your working in
1/8″ thick OD or Coyote brown colored elastic bungee material
black cable ties that are approximately 1/8″ wide
Step 1 Take the elastic bungee material, and cut a piece about 9 inches long.
Step 2. Pre load your cable tie to approximately a 3/4″ loop
Step 3. Loop your elastic into a figure 8 with the ends pointing in opposite directions
Step 4. Slide the cable tie over the elastic figure 8, and tighten in the center as tight as possible, and cut off the excess cable tie.
The result will look like this
Step 5. Take your first color of the jute material, and with about 8 strands, fold it in half over your finger
Step 6. Create a loop at the midsection of the strands, and place it through one of the elastic figure eight loops.
Step 7. Draw the tail end of the jute string through the center jute loop, similar to a girth hitch, and pull it tight.
Step 8. Slide the first section of jute to one side of the loop, and repeat the process with about 4 more jute bundles of different colors. I will usually repeat the primary color I’m using at least once in a section.
Step 9. Take the multiple bundles of jute and run your fingers through them to separate the individual threads, and mix them together, giving them a more mottled, multi color appearance.
That’s as simple as it is to complete the construction part of it. Next we’ll attach it to a molle vest.
Attachment is simply running the open end loop of the figure eight elastic, up through the molle loop.
Take the tail end of the jute string, and pass it through the open end of the figure eight elastic, which is now above the molle loop.
Draw the jute through the open loop, and slide the open loop end over the jute filled loop, snugging it up tight around the molle loop.
I generally put the jute sections on every other molle loop, side to side, and I will skip a row in between rows of jute sections up and down.
I place jute sections over the pouches on my vest, and generally anywhere I think might need a little extra camo. Here’s one of the best attributes of this system. How hard is it to camo your vest or equipment when you wearing snow camo. You either wear the camo over it, or you wear something that doesn’t blend in with the snow camo on top, right? Either using white jute, or spray paint the jute string on the jute sections, and viola, instant snow camo on your equipment, that can be changed to another color, in about 5-10 minutes.
The MMGS can be used on other equipment and clothing as well. For example, the boonie hat.
Of course, you’ll add some other items, foliage for instance, to increase the camo effect of the boonie, but you get the idea.
I hope this helps you guys to maybe come up with some of your own ideas for concealing your gear. I came up with it a couple years ago, and it has worked out very well for me.